Apr 20th, 16:07
At the tender age of 26, Inacio De Gouveia might seem young to own a restaurant. But consider that Rembrandt van Rijn painted The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp at the same age. Inacio seamlessly blends innovation and tradition, adding a personal flourish to Mediterranean staples. If your taste buds have been inured to the charms of hummus and taramasalata by pre-packaged supermarket tubs so often ending up on restaurant tables, Saboroso will reaffirm your faith in a good dip. The chilli zing of the guacamole and the lemon-scented taramasalata is the perfect way to whet the appetite. Inacio has eaten his fair share of prawn rissoles, so often a soggy staple at Portuguese weddings, and added his own crisp and crunchy version to the menu for sentimental reasons. The parmesan and basil mash that accompanies the crisp lemon-buttered line fish is irresistible.
Inacio is an enthusiastic wine lover and has created a robust wine list. I loved the Vins D’Orrance Kama Chenin Blanc that was served with the cob. But it was the pudding – white chocolate balls with a butterscotch sauce – that left the deepest sensory impression. These can only be put in the mouth and eaten in one go. Biting into them through the crispy batter releases a mouthful of melted chocolate that forces you into an appreciative silence, almost holy in its intensity.